Day 29: Sakai – Nara

[post of Saturday 8^th of September 2012]

Lately we approach each stage somehow relaxed, and we keep going like that today too. We have some toasts with olive oil and miso soup for dinner, and we say goodbye to Nozomi. It’s always nice to go back to a friend’s house. We wish good luck to Nozomi, who is training for a competition of 20 km in the Japanese mountain. It’s not too bad for someone who doesn’t like to go fast like Nozomi.

We cycle fast through the 50 km toward Nara, the spiritual capital of Japan. Even thou we left late this morning, we get to the hotel by the early afternoon, so we have time to visit Nara Park.

Nara was the first capital of Japan. Then Kyoto became the capital, which was transferred again to Kamakura and, finally, to Tokyo. Nevertheless, Nara kept a stronghold of tradition from which the ecclesiastical power (above all Buddhism) tried to keep influencing politics as it did when Nara was the capital. That is why there are still a huge number of temples in Nara, together with pagodas and sanctuaries, among which there is the Great Todaiji with its huge statue of Buddha. Despite all this, like in Miyajima, it looks like tourists are more interested in the deer of the park than the amazing architecture in it.

We spend the whole evening in an enchanted place, under the soft light of the sun at the twilight. That’s also the best time in the day to visit the park, since tourists are leaving and you can really enjoy the fantastic setting of Nara Park. On our way back to the hotel, a member of the staff at the tourist office stops us to give us some leaflets in Spanish; he stuck some fake deer ears on us and takes a picture… yet another weird thing of this trip.

The worst part has still to come thou and, when we go back to our room, we realise that Gabriel’s sunglasses are not there. He will have to continue the journey with the normal glasses only, even if the strong sun is uncomfortable for his clear eyes… but also the normal glasses are gone! We search everywhere, unpack the saddlebags, go back to Nara Park… nothing. So we sadly go to the futon to sleep for the night.

Day 28: Wakayama – Sakai

[post of Wednesday 5^th of September 2012]

Today we woke up anew! We’ve got a relaxed day ahead of us, loads of time, so we go back to Wakayama city to visit the castle… after we have a burger for breakfast. We feared we would leave Japan without having a chance to visit a castle from the inside, so we decide we’ll spend the whole day here in Wakayama, enjoying the castle and the rest of the city. Indeed we’re greatly surprised and grateful to this place. Like the majority of castles in Japan, this one too was destroyed by US bombing during WWII, and then built up anew few years later. Wakayama Castle houses a good collection of weapons and armours, and the view from the main tower is breathtaking. In addition, there is the enchanting garden around the castle, a very enjoyable walk for whoever visits Wakayama.

The remaining part of the day is a bit tiring. We decide to cycle up-hill for some 100 metres with the hope of getting away from the urban environment of this area. Unfortunately, the road is being repaired, and we have to go through its left side for some km, with loads of tracks coming from the opposite direction. The next 60 km are quite plain but it’s like crossing a never-ending city, and it gets tedious.

At least we get to Nozomi’s house around 8pm. It’s already late at night, and we got a lost for a little while on our way to Sakai. Nevertheless, we’re happy to meet again Nozomi, and her cats.

Day 27: Wakimachi – Wakayama

[post of Wednesday 5^th of September 2012]

Today we had planned to leave Wakimachi early (without haste), get to Naruto, have a look at the windmills there and, the next day, to cross over the bridge between Shikoku and Awaji Island. Then, we would have moved to Honshu Island toward Kobe. Thanks to the kami we’re staying in the house of Mika and Hiro. Mika tells us that one of the bridges we planned to cross is closed to the bicycles, and that the ferry doesn’t go to the next island but simply brings tourists closer to the windmills. Ainhoa, who likes to have everything under control, has something very similar to a stroke… while Gabriel keeps having his breakfast as if nothing had happened. We change plan, get the people waiting for us to know, and that’s it.

So… change of plans! We’ll go from Wakimachi to Tokushima instead. From there we’ll get the ferry to Wakayama, a historic city South of Osaka; we’ll get there in two hours. Then, we’ll go to Sakai to see Nozomi, the lady who hosted us on our first day in Japan. From Sakai, we’ll change direction in our original plan and, starting with Nara, we’ll go toward the Biwa Lake and Kyoto… to end up in Kobe. Even thou it’s a bit of a surprise, the change comes quite handy because from Kobe we can then take the ferry straight to the airport of Kansai and, once there, prepare the bikes for the fly.

We have the typical Japanese breakfast, which is the miso soup we’re getting addicted to in these days, double check the new route and off we go toward Tokushima. We fell a bit sad while we say goodbye to Mika and Hiro, they’ve been excellent hosts.

We get deeper into the valley, while we leave the mountains behind us. As we go on, the rural environment changes, gradually, into an industrial one. We’re very lucky, and we can cycle all the 50 km of today’s stage in the pedestrian/bike way of the road, which runs alongside the river. We do all of them in one go, almost without realising it, and we can get the 1.30pm ferry to Taokushima. Once on board we get a massive nap of two hours… Japanese style, simply on the floor.

When we get to Wakayama, the weather forecast becomes true and it begins raining. Initially we thought we could assemble the tent in a camping beside the beach, some 10 km from the city. However, with the orange warning on for storm danger in the Kansai region, we decide to reconsider our original plan for the night camping. Gabriel tries to convince Ainhoa that the rain is caused by a passing cloud, but we see a hotel nearby. A little voice seems to whisper us “come in little ones, I’ve got a hot shower and a cosy bed waiting for us” … and we simply cannot resist the temptation.

Day 26: Wakimachi (Mima)

[post of Wednesday 5^th of September 2012]

Today no doubt. Day off… and we wake up as the sun rises. However, today we don’t have to get up to use as many daytime hours to cycle, so we shut the eyes back and go on sleeping until the belly says it’s time for coffee and toasted bread.

Mika and Hiro are great hosts, and we feel happy for the chance to spend the entire day off with them (and their dogs). Mika has planned a Japanese day. For breakfast, we eat some good “ramen” in a tiny restaurant from where it’s impossible to leave still hungry. Then we go back home to get changed; we get off our Western clothes and wear “yukatas”, something like summer kimonos but more simple than the traditional kimonos. Thanks god they’re simplest! Ainhoa and Mika have taken something like half an hour to get ready. No to speak of Gabriel’s “yukata,” that has no mystery but the trousers the other way round. Gabriel just put them on and he’s ready to go.

Dressed up in this way, mika brings us to walk around in the oldest street of Wakimachi, where the houses are in full traditional Japanese style. We love it! ...although we’d love more to know what locals think when they see some foreigners dressed in kimonos.

Then we go with Mika to eat the most delicious ice-cream ever. Not sure if that’s because of the warm or the gorgeous views, or because it is a truly delicious ice-cream.

We go back home to get changed and have a little Japanese nap that, to be honest, goes a bit too far and leaves us ready for dinner. Hiro, Mika’s husband, is getting the fire ready for a barbecue, while we go out to get the last things for dinner, among which there are – of course – some beers and a Rioja wine. Gabriel shows off again with his tortilla of potatoes, and Hiro does the same with his barbecue. This is something completely different from the Spanish barbecue, which almost translate into meat only. Here they barbecue everything that is eatable; fish, cabbage, peppers, meat, sausages, garlic… and even balls of rice! We eat and drink happily. Late at night, a couple from US, Mika’s friends, join us for the last beer. An unforgettable day!