[post of
Tuesday 14th of August 2012]
We got up
early today, so we decided to go to the beach to see the sunrise. Although this
is the “Land of the Rising Sun,” not all sea sides are facing the East…
nevertheless, and even thou the rain starts pouring again, we feel inspired. Ahead
of us lays a long stage, or more than 85 km, but the route 64 has left us with
a nice feeling.
Today finally
we cycle alongside the coast, sightseeing beautiful landscapes, all which
really take your breath away. We’re in love with this country, even when it’s
hard to cope with its hills. Once we get to the plain (as far as this is
possible in Japanese terms, of course), the bikes literally run on their own,
and the fresh air surrounds our body, completely covered by sweat. As we slow
down from the 16 km per hour, the summer warmth takes the piss out of us for
having this insane idea of making this journey in full summer. The route is gorgeous,
the road is very narrow (there is a mirror in each bend), and it goes through
the forest like a snake, like something no Europeans has ever seen.
Of course,
we start to feel the hardness of the journey. The sweat and the warmth irritate
the skin in all (every single one) its corner; regardless of how much sun
screen we’ve put on (UPV +30), it’s never enough and we start to peel; the long
stage and the tension of cycling through today’s road give us cramps; Ainhoa is
clumsy and she falls from the bike every now and then, luckily when the bike is
stopped; our clothes dry up and begin to smell a bit weird, at the very least;
we become food for the flies, which take no notice of our anti-flies spray, and
after all… is this such a great fun? Is it worth it? Without doubt. Japan is as
beautiful a country as its people, the food is excellent, the feeling of
freedom while on the bike priceless. No need to worry about buses, no need to
worry for more fuel than the one we can consume ourselves; we are not a source
of contamination for the environment. We just feel alive and, regardless of whatever
crosses our path, there is no problem
that can overcome this feeling.
And we keep
on cycling, with a smile on our faces. We get to Amakusa, where there was a
seminary, a church and Jesuit college in days gone by, places where the sons of
the greatest samurais’ families studied Latin. We ask ourselves, where did the
Jesuits found the forces to go across the world just to teach the gospel? To be
honest, we had this question even before knowing Amakusa…
We get on
the ferry directed to the Shimabara peninsula. Far way from here, surrounded by
clouds, the mountain Unzen awaits us, the same mountain in which crater
hundreds of Christians were burnt alive. Four hundred years ago the simple name
of this mountain provoked terror; Unzen was a synonyms for the worst martyrdom.
Now, facing its massive figure against the blue sky, we are not sure we’ll have
the forces to climb the 1,000 metres of this green giant.
Then the
ferry gets to its destination, and we have 15 km left before our next stop. Our
host’s name is Kozue. She’s waiting us with a nice dinner and a bunch of
friends, in her gorgeous house in authentic old-fashion Japanese style.
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